Our next destination was
Jaisalmer, which is located around 600km from Jaipur. We had booked tickets in
the Delhi - Jaisalmer express train. Due to heavy fog in Delhi, the train was
running few hours late for the past few weeks.
I was very much concerned about the
delay, as we had many plans for Jaisalmer – which was based on the arrival time
of the train. We reached the Jaipur railway station around 11:30pm. Thanks to
the modern technology, the Indian Railway was updating the position of the
train every 15 minutes. By the time we reached the station, we were relieved as
the train was only delayed by an hour an so. ( which by Indian standards, is a
totally acceptable delay and the train would gain some time by reaching
Jaisalmer!)
As we stepped into the
railway station, we were a bit taken aback. There was huge crowd sleeping on
the floor of the railway station lobby. Even though I have seen the same in
other north Indian railway stations as well, it was a bit of discomfort to wade
through the people who are sleeping and reaching the platform one. Some of
these people have to board early morning trains and some others have just taken
refuge in the railway station to escape the cold weather outside. Everybody
seems to be quite happy and content sleeping on the railway station floor!
The train arrived around
12:30am and we boarded. Soon I slipped into a discontinuous sleep. It was very early
in the morning around 4:00am and I woke up hearing noises inside the bogy and
was surprised to see a large group of army men inside the train. I was a bit scared
remembering those stories of bomb threats and all, however it turned out that, they
were going to Pokhran.
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| The vast barren lands and wind mills in the distance |
I jumped up from my sleep as I heard the word Pokhran
being mentioned. It is a name which we started hearing at a very young age. It was the place were
India conducted its nuclear bomb experiment during the times of Ms. Indira
Gandhi. I was thrilled to know that these army men are going to the Indian military
camp at Pokhran and the train stops around 15 minutes there. I had never
imagined that I would ever set my foot in Pokhran- its curious where all the
life take us.
The train reached Pokhran
and the army men alighted the train. My respect towards our army and the men in
uniform increased many folds as I saw in what kind of harsh circumstances they
survive so that the country can sleep in their cozy homes!
Train was approaching
Jaisalmer. There were only few of us left in the train bogy. There were few
villagers also in the train. On either sides of the track there were barren
lands with brown dust and too few plants around. The sense of “desert” clicked
in me suddenly. Within half an hour we reached the west most part of India –
Jaisalmer. The train was only half an hour late and we were quite happy about
it. Jaisalmer has a very small yet clean railway station. We came to Jaisalmer
to see the sand dunes and Oasis. We had plans to spent the night in desert
camp conducted by a company called
“Damodara” desert camps.
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| Jaisalmer Railway Station |
There was a representative
of the Damodara desert camp waiting for us in front of the Jaisalmer railway
station. We got into his jeep and went to a hotel to freshen up. As the jeep
started, I watched the Jaisalmer town curiously. One striking thing about
Jaisalmer is its dusty color. Every building, be it big or small is built with
yellow sand stone. The population density of Jaisalmer is also very less. As we
approached the office of Damodara desert camp, we noticed a majestic fort.
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| A distant view of Jaisalmer fort |
The
guide told us that, it is the Jaisalmer fort which is the second largest fort
in India where there is human inhabitance. They call it “living fort”. The
largest living fort in India is the Chittorgarh fort.
We have two days in
Jaisalmer. Half day was already over. I felt a kind of joy filled anxiety
stirring in me as we got ready for the desert safari. It was one of my
cherished dreams to see the desert. Even though not as vast and grand as the
Thar desert, Jaisalmer has it’s own share of sand dune located near the town.
Our guide described our itinerary for the next half of the day. First we would
visit an abandoned fort and
village named Khaba and then we would go to an Oasis named “Jessie”. Then comes the camel safari in the sand
dunes and sunset in desert. Later we would go back to the camp located at a
small distance from the dunes. As I hopped in the back seat of the open jeep, I
realized that I haven’t lost my capability of getting excited like a kid!
The jeep darted through
the smooth and wide roads of Jaisalmer. A little while later we entered into
the dusty village roads and we soon reached the Khaba fort.
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| Khaba fort Jaisalmer |
Khaba fort is built
with yellow sandstone and stands on a small hill. It is said that the Khaba
fort and the adjoining village was abandoned overnight. There are many urban
legends floating around this sudden flight .
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| View of the abandoned villages from Khaba fort |
It is said that
a beautiful girl in this village was proposed for marriage by a cruel and
wealthy Zemindar in this region and as the villagers couldn’t protest against
it, they ran away with the girl. Another story is that there is a curse on this
village that nobody would be able to make it as their permanent residence. Some
others say that the village is haunted by ghosts and hence the villagers
left.
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| A structure that looks like a temple - view from Khaba fort |
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| Interior of a house a closer view |
In Rajasthan, such folklore are plenty. Another famous abandoned village
is Kuladhara, which is also nearby Jaisalmer. The “Bhangarh“ fort, which got a lot of
tourist attention due to its tag of “most haunted place in India” is also in
Rajasthan. When there is thousands of years of history attached to a place, these folklores are bound to be formed. Same is the case with Rajasthan.
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| Peacock below the valley of Khaba fort |
We entered into the Khaba
fort, and climbed up to the top most
watch point. The distant view of the vandalized and abandoned villages was
indeed depressing. When I stood there looking at the ruins of the houses, I
felt kind of aloof. What would be the actual reason of their departure?
Suddenly one view caught my eyes which cheered me up instantly.
There were a
flock of peacocks walking along the valley! Apart from the one or two peacocks
that I have seen in the zoo, this was the first time that I see a free flock walking around with
such poise and beauty.
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| A peacock flock near the fort |
There were least bothered by the tourist trying to take
their photos. They might have been adapted to this lifestyle and who doesn’t
want to be adored!
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| Striking a pose! |
We got enough time to watch the peacocks and then it was
time for us to move to our next destination.“Jessie” oasis, as
introduced by the guide from the Damodara desert camp, was located very near to
the Khaba fort.
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| Jessie Oasis - A distant view |
After fifteen minutes ride through the mud roads, we reached a
place which looked like a film set! It was so perfect -The oasis in the middle
of the dry and barren land, the flocks of sheep climbing downhill to drink
water, the turbaned shepherd, the ancient temple and picturesque tree slanting
over to the oasis. We usually get to see these scenes only in movies. We spent
some time around this serene place without disturbing the sheep or the
shepherded.
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| the sheep coming down to drink water |
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| The ancient temple next to the water |
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| The tree of life |
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| The temple ruins near the Oasis |
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| The temple ruins near the Oasis |
It was almost 3:00pm in
the afternoon and it was time for us to go for the desert safari. Most famous
destination in Jaisalmer is the Sam sand dunes. However, one would always find
a huge crowd and groups of camels carrying tourists in the Sam dunes. Hence, to
give us a real experience of how lonely and scary the desert look, the Damodara
guide took us to their private dunes which are situated quite far from the Sam
dunes.
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| The lonely sand dunes |
This sand dunes is quite close to the Damodara village of Jaisalmer,
where the owner of the Damodara desert camp Prithvi hails from. Prithvi himself
is an avid traveler and he decided to start a tourism venture giving employment
to his own villagers. All the staff of Damodara desert camp is from the same
village and they are in a great rapport with each other. We could also feel the same rapport with the Damodara desert camp and the team.
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| Attempting sand surfing |
We walked around the lonely sand dunes till
the last rays of the sun bid good bye, and then headed back to the desert camp
located very near to the dunes.
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| Sun setting in the Desert |
We had arranged accommodation in tents. The tents were quite luxurious which reminded me of the stories from the
Arabian Nights.
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| the "tent"! |
Damodra desert camp had beautiful camp fire and lovely Rajasthani
music and dance was arranged. It was quite an otherworldly experience to sit
under the clear starry sky, listening to heart warming music and eating your favorite
food. It was a perfect afternoon and night!
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| Camp fire at the Damodara desert camp |
The next day morning, we
were woken up by the creaky sound of the peacocks. There was slight fog but it
was a pleasant morning.
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| A wonderful morning! |
We got out of the tent and had a good look at the camp.
We couldn’t see much of it in the previous day as it was quite dark by the time
we arrived.
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| Sheer beauty! |
We walked around and captured some peacocks quietly in the camera –
of course without disturbing their serene pursuits!
After a lovely breakfast,
it was time for us to head back to the Jaisalmer town. We had planned to visit
the Jaisalmer fort during the day before we head back to Jodhpur.
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| Damodara desert camp |
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| The tent we stayed |
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